A morning run down Haruru falls in New Zealand.

by Stephen 4 comments

Losing Time

I woke up today with the sound of the running river and the birds chirping.

It’s Sunday, or at least I think it is.

The gift of “losing time” is spectacular. It took me two months to get lost, I am finding it difficult to imagine the idea of going back.

Kids never know what day it is, even before we started the trip, on weekends our daughter would ask “is it a school day”, and then she would ask me the same question 2-3 more times throughout the day.

Now I ask the same question, and yes, sometimes more than once.

The ancients and the beginning of time

One of the blessings of global travel is the chance to step back into history.

When I was at the UBUD Readers and Writers Festival I spent 4 days immersed in Aussie, New Zealand and Indonesian history. I even went to see several documentaries, one of these was about the first nomadic population of humans to enter Australia. Now of course we refer to them as Aborigines.

This group of clandestine travelers were the first ever to cross from land over water without any notion of a land mass on the other side.

But as luck would have it, there was, and it was Australia.

Thinking about what Australia must have been like prior to human inhabitants is fascinating, not to mention what it must of have been like to encounter giant birds, huge car size lizards, and curious hopping two-legged creatures.

These nomads lived a lifestyle that we in the modern age have been trying hard to replicate. Not the cold climate, lack of clothing, food and shelter. I will take 2014 thank you very much, but the timelessness, the community and the idea of freedom.

Modernity is not always prosperity

Sitting here riverside, in the middle of the Northern Island of NZ in the town of Paihia, I have time to take a deep breath, step away from the crowds and markets of Kuta Beach in Bali, and remember what it feels like to be timeless.

Not timeless in the sense of “I am not going to die”, but timeless in the sense of “What day is it”?

Time tracking helps us to make appointments and to create a sense of organization around life, but the constant organization, alarms, appointments, meetings, calendars it is not my idea of freedom.

Is it anybody’s?

In 2014 it is a luxury to be timeless, which is interesting, since almost everything we do, invent and purchase is marketed as a means to give us more time.

And although we have it, we don’t have the luxury to lose track of it, which begs the question, is modernity really the truest path to prosperity.

by Wendy 2 comments

Coffee Bay South Africa and the Wild Coast with Kids

Coffee Bay South Africa - The Wild Coast!

(View on Google Maps Stay at The Coffee shack)

Have you ever arrived in a place and thought to yourself, am I still on planet earth?

Welcome to South Africa’s Wild Coast!

It’s hard to describe such a place, lovingly known as Coffee Bay.

But the name fits: Like coffee, it is both sour and sweet, incredibly enjoyable to sip, but best when served in the morning and definitely not too close to bedtime.

The drive from highway N2 down Main street 1.5 hours to Coffee Bay was a nail-biting, adrenaline filled adventure.

We dodged goats, cattle, large horned bull, sheep, people and pot holes.

This was made worse by large, randomly placed speed bumps which didn’t make any sense whatsoever. It would make a great course for the Indie 500.

The landscape was dry and spotted with circular mud huts painted in bright turquoise, red and brown.

People could be seen traversing the long seemingly endless hillsides from one sparsely populated location to the next.

What do people do out here? One thing is for certain, they walk!

We drove into town if you can call it that. Just a dead end with a few traditional homes on a hillside.

We had already pre-booked our hostel but for good measure we stopped our car and poked our heads into the “nice hotel”. As usual they quoted us an exorbitant price, which would make us feel better about where we were staying.

Where to stay in Coffee Bay with Kids

“The Coffee shack” as it is known, was over the bridge and at the end of the road, located on the edge of the river mouth.

We were greeted by a friendly local host and she showed us around. The place had a friendly “hippie” vibe and the kids were happy.

The walking paths were made out of native stone and the outdoor eating area had long log tables. There was a fire pit and a large irregular table under a thatched roof porch.

We were all given a complimentary drink from the bar.

The bathroom sinks and showers were made out of the local rock and the basins were hundred-year-old grinding stones worn down so thin that a hole developed and they made them into the sink basins.

Our room was across the river from the main facilities, all the way up a very steep hill. It was appropriately named “Kings Castle“. Great view!

The owners dog took the kids and Stephen for a walk up the hill and across to the beach. I walked around touring the hostel/campground. It’s such an eerie place when no one is around. I guess the town would be livelier in the summer?

We only stayed one night. I felt stuck in a time warp somewhere between the need to be part of the future but stuck in the past with no indication that the place would ever catch up.

I also felt sad for the day the big money does discover this area. I guess I felt at odds with myself wanting that, and not wanting that, at the same time.

Although we had a very short stay, the free dinner, awesome view, fun-loving atmosphere, friendly dog and sheets, made it a great stop.

I would like to go back again in 20 years, just to see if anything has changed.

And yes, I think I would go back to the Coffee Sack and ask for the Kings Castle.

by Stephen

Top 6 Family and Kid Friendly Accommodations in South Africa

Our favorite kid and family friendly Budget Accommodations in South Africa

Our South Africa itinerary consisted of 11 stops:

Cape Town → Hermanus → Oudtshoorn → Wilderness → Plettenberg Bay → Jeffrey’s Bay → Addo Elephant Park → Chinsta → Coffee bay → St. Lucia → Durban

Hermanus

We stayed at the Hermanus Esplanade which was a good deal. At $55 US per night, we were given an entire fisherman’s cottage for our family.

We had a nice refrigerator, stove, family room and two bathrooms.

What we didn’t have was wi-fi or a swimming pool. Not biggies but the backpackers hostel may be worth the look and it seems to me it may be just a bit better for families.

Our kids had a special hideout upstairs as well which allowed them to sleep in and us parents to have a private room downstairs. The only downside is we are here in August and there is no heat whatsoever, it was quite cold in the evenings. We improvised by firing up the hot plate and using it as a radiant heater, which I must say didn’t work that badly – just don’t tell the owners.

Oudtshoorn

Karoo Soul – We stayed in the family “cottage” for US $60 per night. Nice and close to town, with a full kitchen and private bathroom.

This was a bit more than we wanted to spend for 3 nights but definitely comfortable and the staff was super friendly. On the plus side, we received discounts to activities probably worth about $20 on the first day alone.

Wilderness

Wilderness Beach House Backpackers – This place is so fun and friendly, the views are spectacular, it’s close to the beach and the owner of this lodge will make you feel right at home. It is cold in the winter and they don’t have heat, so be warned. You may want to ask for extra blankets.

Plettenberg Bay

Swallow’s Nest: We ended up at a B&B operated by a Dutch couple and their son. We talked them down to 700 Rand a night for a really nice 2 bedroom cottage overlooking the entire bay. They had a good internet connection a small pool (that was too cold for the kids unfortunately) and the best part… The most amazing breakfast I have ever had.

Honestly I would probably recommend the beachside backpackers just because their location is a bit better and it is probably a bit more budget-friendly for families but this breakfast was so good I may actually consider going back someday for that alone.

Jeffrey’s Bay

Stay at Cristal Cove

For around $65 a night we had our own family apartment complete with two bedrooms, two baths, balcony with a view to the ocean, full kitchen, living room, TV, consistent WiFi, beer bottle candles, a friendly cat, a lively bar downstairs, a pool table, tennis courts a block away, a playground a block away, great people to talk to and to round it off, Supertubes right outside our bedroom window

Addo Elephant Park

The Avoca river cabins are about 15 minutes away from the Elephant Park. Hands down this is the very best place we have stayed in all of south Africa (and that is saying a lot!).

Free kayaks for use on the river
Amazing river front cabins with a heater during the winter months!
A beautiful pool with a slide
A full kitchen
Two playgrounds each equipped with a ground level trampoline, zipline, tire swing and a jungle gym.
Less than $65 US per night!

Let me say it one more time as well to make sure you get this down. There is a free and amazing kid size zipline! So cool.

Breakfast was 5 dollars for adults and free for children, and because the property is on an orange orchard you can help yourself to all the oranges you would like. Because of this we ate oranges and drank freshly squeezed orange juice for 3 days straight!

by Stephen

Durban South Africa With Kids

Durban is an interesting stop in South Africa, my overall feeling is that it was a lot of fun, but finding our bearings was a bit complicated.

Lonely Planet describes Durban as the ultimate family playland, I am not sure I would go this far, but it can be a good place for families.

For little kids the biggest barrier to travel in Durban is the distance between attractions. Durban has a wonderful beachfront to stroll. But it is a long stroll that can be tiring for little legs, so just keep this in mind.

On Sunday it is party time and the main beachfront promenade is packed, you will see lots of families.

You can rent bikes and bicycle from one end to the next, you can rent skateboards, and body boards. They have a great skate park loaded with small children learning to roller skate and skateboard.

Things to do in Durban with Kids

Go to the Moses Mabhida Stadium

The Moses Mabhida Stadium at Durban Beachfront was the home to the 2010 World Cup Cup. It is beautiful and you can take a funicular up to the top with your entire family for about 15 dollars. Kids under 6 ride free and the view and the ride up will entertain kids and adults alike.

The entrance to the funicular is not obvious, so when you get there ask and somebody will point you in the right direction. You can rent bicycles and get a bite to eat all within the vicinity of the funicular entrance. They even offer very cheap Segway rides, your kids must be 12 and older.

On the front facing side is a playground that our kids enjoyed.

The Waterpark and Aquarium

Important – THE WATERPARK IS CLOSED MONDAY AND TUESDAY

This was a huge surprise. The tickets for the family for a combo ticket which included both the aquarium and the waterpark were very reasonable. We luckily were able to wait until Wednesday and we had an amazing day.

We started with a seal show (kind of lame but the kids liked it) followed by an amazing dolphin show and underwater aquarium.

From there we went across the way and spent the afternoon in the waterpark. Our 4 and 6 year olds were able to ride almost all the slides and they had a blast!

Rent a bicycle:

Bicycle hire is not only popular but a great way to get from one end to the other in a fun way. We rented two tandems for about $18 US for an hour. The kids whined a bit at first but ended up having a great time while mom and dad peddled them around upwind!

Go to the free waterpark slide on the waterfront:

This is a free waterpark with a big 2 sided waterslide that your kids will love. You can’t miss it when you are walking but if driving it is beachside from the ride park. Our kids made this a 2 day adventure and they had loads of good cheap fun!

Where to Stay in Durban With Kids

If you can, I would recommend skipping the hotel in Durban and stay instead at Umhlanga Rocks.

We ended up staying at the Three Cities Riverfront Hotel

Accommodations in Durban were frustrating and expensive. We ended up at a hotel, which although it was probably one of our more expensive stops was a letdown compared to our “self catering” accommodations in South Africa.

I wish I could be more help here. If you have kids, ideally you would stay on the Durban beachfront, but this is very pricey.

We spent one night on the Bluffs, which was too far off the beaten path and then up the road from the beachfront which was not ideal, but OK. Check the prices and try to find a beachfront property. Lonely Planet was little help and the backpackers hostels were not ideal for families.

What to eat in Durban

Eat some Bunny Chow, because this is where it was made famous. This is also a good place to get great tasting Indian food.

A note on surfing the Durban beachfront

The surf is kind of messy but could be fun. Surprisingly renting a surfboard in Durban is extremely difficult. After asking around, jogging and biking the entire beachfront I found one place to rent a board and it is a newer surf shop right next to the water-park and marine world. Why no one rents boards along the way is beyond me and it is a real shame.

The surf is tide dependent, which makes this challenging. Again, as a solo traveler my day depended on what I was feeling at any given moment. With kids, if the surf is up but if kids are going down, renting a board and getting out on the surf and back to your hotel room can be difficult. Especially if you are not right across from the beach, which in Durban will cost you the shirt off your back.

The beachfront from end to end is protected by a “shark repelling net”, at least that is what the surf shop told me. A grizzly old South African told me if you want to go surf with sharks surf Durban, according to the locals this was not true. I don’t know, seemed safe enough to me.

by Wendy 2 comments

Hluhluwe-iMolozi Park

View Google Map stay in St. Lucia

*Insiders tip: Hluhluwe-iMolozi is Malaria free and very well priced which makes it a better option than Kruger for families with small children (in my opinion).

Today we took our long-awaited safari ride through Hluhluwe-iMolozi Park

If you don’t want the locals to give you a funny face, this is pronounced Schlew Schlewi.

Although you can self drive the game park we chose Heritage Tours which was well worth the reasonable price (when compared to other options).

We stayed in the amazingly kid friendly St. Lucia at a reasonably priced self catering cottage called Stokkiesdraai. There may be more impressive places to stay in St. Lucia, but when you look at the cost, location and size of the units, it was really hard to beat.

The Hluhluwe-iMolozi Game Park Safari with Heritage Tours

Hluhluwe-iMolozi Park Heritage Tours with Kids

The morning started early and we got our times mixed up but we were headed off to the park by 6AM. Usually the safari starts out at 5 AM, it is a 1 hour ride to the park and this allows for the best viewing of the large cats: Tigers and Leopards.

We were the only ones on the safari drive which was wonderful because the kids could have full range of the tall truck and their attention span was able to be catered to as well as their stomachs and bathroom rights.

We were lucky because our guide John said they are busy year round going out everyday. It just so happens the first two weeks of September is the low time for St Lucia.

We didn’t see any cats, not sure if this is because we lost that 1st hour in the morning or as John said sometimes as a cold front moves in the cats tend to not show up; just something he has noticed.

We did see their paw prints though as well as plenty of giraffe, white rhinos, wart hogs, impalas, Kudu, Zebras, hawks, bumble bee eating bird, Eland (type of antelope; not related to deer), one elderly buffalo lying on the bank of the river and our last great encounter was three large male Elephants.

We and another truck had the pleasure of watching them pass through us as they walked down to the river bed. Each on looked directly at us and flared their giant ears to show us who was boss.

The elephants at this park as to opposed to Addo Elephant Park are known to be much more aggressive so we kept our distance. WildCrats (a popular American animal show for kids) came in handy again and the kids were able to tell us all about the symbiotic relationship with the birds ( that sat on the backs of all the animals.

The White Rhino

Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park is most famous for their conservation efforts to bring back the black and white rhinos.

Every year thousands are poached for their large horn which can be worth well over $900,000 US. John said if nothing was done about the demand for the horns themselves that they could go extinct in less than 20 years.

We had the honor of seeing these animals up close and they are so ancient looking and really defenseless against poachers. They have very poor eyesight and this makes it easy for poachers to sneak up on them when the wind is just right. The rangers are almost helpless in stopping this from happening. They are unable to cover such a vast area of the parks and even if they do come upon them they are unable to fire unless fired upon. John says they are becoming even more brazen and will come in during the day.

Choosing a Safari that is Good For Kids

We opted for the half day safari option which cost $278 for 2 adults and 2 children.

The half day safari was plenty. The seating consisted of padded bench seats in the back of a pick-up designed to have upper viewing and the hood of the truck was cut out so our driver could communicate with us easily. He was so knowledgeable and the roads are so laden with pot holes, and dirt roads, not to mention poor signage in the park.

Well worth the money to not go through the park in your own vehicle.

Enjoying the sun roof

Kids are happy

Elephants of Hluhluwe-iMolozi

A different tour company

Park entrance

Enjoying the ride

Giraffes in Hluhluwe-iMolozi

Hluhluwe-iMolozi after the controlled burn

If you’re debating between going to a private game reserve or visiting one of the smaller private game parks, you’ll have to weigh your options.

If you want a guaranteed chance of seeing all of the big five, a private game park such as Schotia Safari’s near The Addo Elephant Park will be your best bet.

If you want to see how the animals truly interact in a large ecosystem which is much less “touristy” then visit one of the larger game parks and take a multi-day walking safari. Keep in mind, this is not an option with small kids below the age of 12.

If you do choose to see the big five in a private game reserve, my feeling now is don’t feel like this is unnatural. All of South Africa’s big five are fenced in. There is no such thing as a true African wildlife safari that we may have dreamed of as little children. Humans have now overtaking their environment, yes, all of it.

The landscape was all control burned. They do this every year in the spring before the summer rains. This mimics the natural occurring fires. The fire takes down all the brown vegetation and allows the green new vegetation/grasses to sprout again. Only the green grasses provide enough protein for the animals.

Before the park was formed, naturally the animals would roam from one area to the next seeking out these green grasses. They are now in a 7 year drought and all the rivers are very low.

by Stephen

Pemuteran: Bali Indonesia

When it comes to finding the perfect place in Bali for kids, snorkeling, beach and relaxation, it is hard to beat the Amertha Bali Villas and Pemuteran.

When I think of Bali, I will probably think of Pemuteran.

These were words I did not expect to say as Pemuteran was not on our agenda when we landed in Bali.

Coming from Balian Beach and seeking a place to do some offshore snorkeling with the kids we came across Pemuteran in a guidebook.

What makes Pemuteran unique is the fact that you can have some amazing snorkeling right offshore, this is rare in Bali.

Pemuteran has no surf, the waters are calm and deep blue, the beach is black, but has soft lacy sand.

The reef is being regenerated by a unique process using electrical current. Because of this the previously dead reef has come back in record time and if you go you will see what I am talking about.

Pemuteran is said to have 80% of the different types of the worlds coral all in one postcard perfect place.

Pemuteran for Kids

Wonderful Outdoor Breakfast

Waiting Beachside

Our 7 year old snorkeling in Pemuteran Bali

Enjoying the Morning Sun

Our (Almost) Private Pool

Kids Playing in Kitchen Area

The key to getting kids in the water to snorkel is being close to home. You can’t get closer than Pemuteran. If you stay on the beach you can literally walk out your door and jump right into some world class snorkeling.

Most hotels rent snorkel gear, there is a turtle conservatory on the beach, there are PVC floats to rest on the water if kids (or adults) get tired, there is no surf and calm clear water.

We brought our kids’ life jackets and their own snorkel gear, which was well worth the effort of lugging them around for the year. The snorkel gear has been invaluable and with the lifevest’s they were able to enjoy the process.

Where to stay in Pemuteran with Kids

As I mentioned above the Amertha Bali Villas were heaven on earth. Although we were housed near the entrance in a group arrangement, we ended up pretty much having our own pool, with a pool slide, a shared outdoor kitchen a wonderful sitting area and lots of frogs for the kids.

You walk one way and you get the beach, you walk 3 minutes the other way and you are on the main drag. This is a real advantage when you are toting around little ones.

Breakfast was heavenly, we ate right on the beach and although our accommodations set us back at almost $100 per night, we stayed within budget, as the huge breakfast and plentetude of free daytime activities meant we had very little extra out of pocket expenses.

Babysitting in Bali

This is the first time we used a babysitter on our trip and the hotel provided us with 2, smiling and energetic Balinese girls, to care for your 2 kids – They didn’t speak a lick of Englis,h but the kids didn’t seem to care a bit. The cost was $4 US per hour.

Our 4 year old son having fun with the babysitter.

Snorkeling in Menjangan

Children Who? Enjoying the Warm Water while our Kids Enjoy the Hotel

Menjangan Temple

We took a 6-hour boat trip to snorkel Menjangan Island, a famous diving and snorkeling spot, which is a short boat ride away.

I think our kids watched TV with the sitters for the majority of that time, although they were too guilt ridden to say.

But by the end both parents and kids were extremely happy.

Final thoughts

I have yet to see Pemuteran on any “classic” Bali itinerary. Thank God because once people find out about this place the prices and the tranquil beauty will be long gong.

Pemuteran is an ideal spot for families and even more so if you are looking for a wonderful place to snorkel right off shore.

Pemuteran is quiet, so it is definitely worth it to make this your hotel splurge.

If you stay a the Amertha Bali Villas your mouth will drop, and although it may seem like more money at first, being on the beach, having snorkeling right at your doorstep, along with villas with private pools, kitchens, and a breakfast you can stretch to well past lunch. You may save money in the end like we did if your budget is around $100-$150 per day.

As I said call and negotiate. We were quoted 3X the amount we ended up paying for a room. When we said that it was way out of our budget they said well “what is your budget”.. Ask in the off season and you will be amazed at what you can find!

by Stephen

Visa Problems in Bali

This is what happens when you don't pay close attention to Indonesian visa laws.

Looking out from the inside of the Balinese jail cell it all became clear. I should have never quit my day job!

Then I woke up and realized it was all just a bad dream.

We did, however, in the span of 24 hours:

fail to complete our Indonesian Visa extension in time
we lost our pre-booked campervan rental in New Zealand without our knowledge
we lost our bank card in the ATM machine and
we did have to pony up over $750 in cash to avoid deportation.

But at least we aren’t in jail… Yet!

Later the next day, while on our drive to Kuta to catch our newly adjusted flight, I caught myself lamenting our unfortunate chain of events to Dewa, our wonderful Balinese van driver.

In response, he simply said:

“sometimes you have to pay good money to learn from your mistakes“.

Yes indeed, I love Hinduism!

What is a good price for a roadschool education?

After Dewa proved he was far along the path of a good Karmic reincarnation, I began thinking back to all my years of paid education.

I bet if you added it all up (minus loans, grants and free government money) my undergraduate and graduate degrees with interest and cost of living would total well over $300,000 dollars.

Hell, my Cecil’s Textbook of Medicine which now doubles as a table weight for home construction projects was close to $200 alone.

So this time, when we were faced with a very costly error in judgment, it was good to step back and put everything into perspective.

The school of the world will make you pay from time to time for the privilege of enrollment.

Mistakes make your brain grow

My daughter’s kindergarten teacher has a wonderful saying “mistakes are what makes your brain grow“. My daughter will remind me of this from time to time, and it is true.

No matter how carefully you plan, prepare, analyze or set up detailed parameters to prevent an epic fail, things will fall through the cracks.

This time, when I was forking over the money to Indie to adjust our flights and prevent hard jail-time in Bali I was kicking myself. “Man, what I could have done with that money I thought, we just threw it all away. ”

But, it was an education and if you compare its cost with a college textbook or one semester at community college (or the price of fixing a leaking hot water heater) the school of hard knocks is actually very cheap.

Roadschooling for Parents and Travelers

When most traveling families talk about roadschooling we are usually referring to our kids’ education. But we parents are receiving an education just as valuable.

What can a $600 dollar mistake teach you that is of any benefit?

Great question, I can tell you one thing, next time I book my airline tickets I will make sure to carefully read through each countries visa requirements and review them once again with immigration upon arrival at the airport.

It also teaches one to be a traveler not a tourist.

Becoming a world-class traveler requires an education. Becoming a world-class tourist is usually free of charge.

Tourists pay other people for the privilege of avoiding mistakes, travelers pay as they go.

Travelers become tour guides, tourists may avoid the stress, the problems, the long lines and the extra costs of a roadschooling education. But really, what do we worry about more when we travel?

That something will happen, or that nothing will?

And which one is more valuable in the long run?

by Stephen

Hiring a Babysitter in Bali – Parents can Now Eat, Pray and Love

Our 4 year old son having fun with the babysitter.

Several year ago I listened to Elizabeth Gilbert’s now famous book Eat, Pray Love.

At the time I am not sure that I knew such a large portion of this book was written about Ubud Bali, our next stop, but I remember Elizabeth finding her spiritual center on an exotic island, and yes, I guess it really was Bali.

As a single white female traveling alone through Bali to discover yourself and find love, it may be easy to find time to relax. But can you do this as a parent?

Finding a Babysitter in Bali

On the travel circuit you meet all types. When it comes to families and Bali, the majority have been Aussies taking 1-2 week holidays to unwind.

The Aussies and New Zealander’s seem to know how to do Bali right, so we took notes.

Leaving your children in a foreign country with a babysitter who 90% of the time doesn’t speak a lick of English can be a frightening thought. But, after watching the Aussie parents relax to morning Yoga, get a massage, take day trips and generally unwind all while their children were being thoroughly entertained by a kind, smiling Balinese teenager… It was just too much to resist.

So, we decided to take the leap.

The typical cost of a babysitter in Bali is about $3-4 US per hour, this was for 2 children

To find a babysitter it is easy, simply ask someone at the front desk of where you are staying, or really any other Balinese person you come across. If somebody asks you if you need a taxi, you can say no, but I need a babysitter and I am sure they will be happy to oblige.

Many of the Aussies would set this up for the entire week. For example, taking yoga every morning and scheduling a babysitter to come in for 2 -3 hours daily for the week. You can do this for a day, a month, a week or probably the year 🙂

The babysitters smile and let your children really do whatever they want. The kids couldn’t be happier. What is amazing is that when you give kids the reins, remind them to be careful and respectful, things work out surprisingly well.

We took a 6 hour snorkeling trip, and the kids had a great day, we gave the hotel our cell phone number and made sure the babysitter could swim if they were to go in the water. Otherwise no pool time. When we got back they were happy as larks, and so were we.

My only regret about the babysitting in Bali is that we didn’t use it more.

You do not need to stay in fancy hotels to get a babysitter. Babysitters are ubiquitous and everybody in Bali is trustworthy and kind. You can feel very confident taking longer day trips and know that your kids will be well entertained. You can worry about something bad happening, but it is a waste of time, kids will be kids whether they are with you or the babysitter and actually they are probably safer with the babysitter.

For parents it can be a well deserved break, that is very inexpensive and probably under-utilized.

by Stephen

When Bad Things Happen

Today on a 3-hour drive from Pemuteran down to Ubud we watched as a 12-year-old boy lost control of his motorbike and crashed landing just yards away directly in front of our van.

He was sideswiped by an oncoming driver and then a truck ran over his body after he landed on the asphalt.

I was sitting in the front passenger’s seat reading and looked up just in time to see most of it, including the rag doll effect of his body rebounding upward as the truck ran him over then released the full weight of the vehicle from his torso.

It happened so fast, so extremely fast.

What transpired next surprised me even more. Our driver sat there and said “you saw nothing, we saw nothing.”

I was horrified.

The Bystander Effect

There was probably 12 or 15 adults standing around the scene of the accident, everyone stood around and looked on as this young child bled to death in the middle of the road.

I told our driver I was getting out of the car.

I walked up to the boy and saw quite a bit of blood, his legs and arms were twitching, as I leaned down to asses the situation two other men came to help. There was an audible silence, and a lot of people speaking in Balinese, I could tell they were pointing fingers.

I stabilized his head and neck the best I could and we lifted him up, he was bleeding from his forehead. He was barely conscious and unable to speak, his eyes were rolling up into the heavens and his pupils appeared dilated.

The three of us took him to the side of the road where I wanted to place him down on the soft grass so we could quickly address any injuries that may need to be stabilized.

The owner of the home yelled at us and pushed us off her lawn, I was taken aback, yet not really surprised. I could tell by our drivers reaction that this was a unique and culturally sensitive situation.

We had to carry the boy past two unwelcoming storefronts until we finally settled for a broken stone walkway on the roadside. I checked his breathing and pulse which was strong and then unbuttoned his shirt and shorts. There were no obvious signs of an external injury. One of the men pulled off his helmet and that is when I got a good look at the boy. It is also when I realized that indeed, he was just a boy.

He could have been my boy, anybody’s boy.

The two men who had helped were also driving a truck with some type of flower or produce in the back. The plan was to drive him quickly to the hospital. We lifted the boy once again and they sat him in the front middle seat of the truck. His body went limp and he fell against the passenger side window.

Then they drove quickly away.

It all happened so fast

It wasn’t until the truck was leaving that I felt the heavy burden of dread come over me, when I realized I should have jumped in the bed of that truck and gone with them.

My family was in a van pulled off the side of the road up ahead, but our driver would have followed had I demanded it.

How could I be so stupid to let him go? What if he started to crash, needed CPR or just somebody there to hold him and care for him on that one hour ride?

Where was I going that was all that important?

So I sat back down in the leather seat of our 6 passenger van and I thought about this 12-year-old boy.

How his life had begun this morning and may have ended this afternoon. He was simply coming home from school, riding a scooter, the warm breeze his hair, laughing like a schoolboy should and then….

It happened so fast!

by Stephen 2 comments

Jimbaran Bali is Great for Kids

(Google map link)

Jimbaran was an incidental stop on our 1 month trip to Bali.

We ended up spending 3 nights here after a 5 pm arrival at Bali International airport in need of a place to catch up on sleep.

The saving grace for Jimbaran was the Hotel Puri Bambu – which after coming from the cold winter of South Africa was a welcome respite. We all immediately jumped into the huge central swimming pool and my first thought was “I am in heaven.”

Then I ordered a cold beer from the poolside bar!

We found Jimbaran on a last minute ( the night before) internet search on where to stay around Kuta (which wasn’t Kuta) when arriving Ngurah Rai International Airport. Several sites recommended Jimbaran with kids because it had a nice beach, gentle surf, and a relaxed atmosphere.

As you will find with many places in Bali, especially when traveling with kids, the hotel can be a highlight of a certain location and can make or break a place. Coming from South Africa where we had large and inexpensive “self-catering units” we realized very quickly that if we were not all going to share a bed we would have to pay a bit more.

Hotel Puri Bambu has one of the nicest pools we have come across for a very reasonable price, lovely gardens and a good Bali feel.

Jimbaran beach is actually quite nice. If you are arriving here as your first stop in Bali as we were you may be under-impressed, but as you travel the island you will begin to see why people say it is a good place for kids.

Surfing in Jimbaran Beach is Perfect for Kids and Beginners

There is a very gentle surf break at the far end (opposite the airport side) where anyone could learn to surf, when the tide is right it is perfect for body surfing and our kids had a blast playing in the waves. It is one of the only beaches in Bali we have been to that had fun waves and very little riptide.

Kuta’s main beach is fun for kids as well, but the rips here are strong as you will see when you visit.

Jimbaran is famous for its beachside seafood dining. We did partake in one sunset meal and it was nice, but it all felt a bit fake and a little forced. But like the guidebooks said, you can sit and enjoy a meal while your kid’s frolick on the beach… That, of course, is only if they are in the mood.

The walk from Hotel Puri Bambu is about 5-7 minutes to the beach and your kids probably will complain if this is your first stop and they are adjusting to the beach. It makes a great starting point for a trip to Uluwatu Temple as well for a night dance, although we did not know this until we had already left and were in Kuta.

Final Verdict

Jimbaran is not a “must see” Bali location by any means. It is made very nice by the well priced and well located Hotel Puri Bambu which really sells it in my mind as an airport stopping point. The breakfast is one of the best we have had and they have a free shuttle into Kuta which I have yet to see anywhere else on our adventures.

The beach is decent, not AMAZING, and you can eat fish on the beach, but you can really do this anywhere.

Costs and highlights:

Transfer from airport to hotel (by the hotel) was 75,000 IDR (about 7 bucks)
Hotel Puri Bambu – about $55 US per night plus an extra bed if you want for $20 – this is the one place we paid the difference which brought up the cost.
Free amazing breakfast.
Free WiFi that was pretty good.

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