About Stephen

To teach our children the meaning of gratitude, to grow as a family through love, adventure, service community and of course travel.

Looking out from the inside of the Balinese jail cell it all became clear. I should have never quit my day job!

Then I woke up and realized it was all just a bad dream.

We did, however, in the span of 24 hours:

  1. fail to complete our Indonesian Visa extension in time
  2. we lost our pre-booked campervan rental in New Zealand without our knowledge
  3. we lost our bank card in the ATM machine and
  4. we did have to pony up over $750 in cash to avoid deportation.

But at least we aren’t in jail… Yet!

Later the next day, while on our drive to Kuta  to catch our newly adjusted flight, I caught myself lamenting our unfortunate chain of events to Dewa, our wonderful Balinese van driver.

In response, he simply said:

 “sometimes you have to pay good money to learn from your mistakes“.

Yes indeed, I love Hinduism!

What is a good price for a roadschool education?

After Dewa proved he was far along the path of a good Karmic reincarnation, I began thinking back to all my years of paid education.

I bet if you added it all up (minus loans, grants and free government money) my undergraduate and graduate degrees with interest and cost of living would total well over $300,000 dollars.

Hell, my Cecil’s Textbook of Medicine which now doubles as a table weight for home construction projects was close to $200 alone.

So this time, when we were faced with a very costly error in judgment, it was good to step back and put everything into perspective.

The school of the world will make you pay from time to time for the privilege of enrollment.

Mistakes make your brain grow

My daughter’s kindergarten teacher has a wonderful saying “mistakes are what makes your brain grow“. My daughter will remind me of this from time to time, and it is true.

No matter how carefully you plan, prepare, analyze or set up detailed parameters to prevent an epic fail, things will fall through the cracks.

This time, when I was forking over the money to Indie to adjust our flights and prevent hard jail-time in Bali I was kicking myself. “Man, what I could have done with that money I thought, we just threw it all away. ”

But, it was an education and if you compare its cost with a college textbook or one semester at community college (or the price of fixing a leaking hot water heater) the school of hard knocks is actually very cheap.

Roadschooling for Parents and Travelers

When most traveling families talk about roadschooling we are usually referring to our kids’ education. But we parents are receiving an education just as valuable.

What can a $600 dollar mistake teach you that is of any benefit?

Great question, I can tell you one thing, next time I book my airline tickets I will make sure to carefully read through each countries visa requirements and review them once again with immigration upon arrival at the airport.

It also teaches one to be a traveler not a tourist.

Becoming a world-class traveler requires an education. Becoming a world-class tourist is usually free of charge.

Tourists pay other people for the privilege of avoiding mistakes, travelers pay as they go.

Travelers become tour guides, tourists may avoid the stress, the problems, the long lines and the extra costs of a roadschooling education. But really, what do we worry about more when we travel?

That something will happen, or that nothing will?

And which one is more valuable in the long run?

Several year ago I listened to Elizabeth Gilbert’s now famous book Eat, Pray Love.

At the time I am not sure that I knew such a large portion of this book was written about Ubud Bali, our next stop, but I remember Elizabeth finding her spiritual center on an exotic island, and yes, I guess it really was Bali.

As a single white female traveling alone through Bali to discover yourself and find love, it may be easy to find time to relax. But can you do this as a parent?

Finding a Babysitter in Bali

On the travel circuit you meet all types. When it comes to families and Bali, the majority have been Aussies taking 1-2 week holidays to unwind.

The Aussies and New Zealander’s seem to know how to do Bali right, so we took notes.

Leaving your children in a foreign country with a babysitter who 90% of the time doesn’t speak a lick of English can be a frightening thought. But, after watching the Aussie parents relax to morning Yoga, get a massage, take day trips and generally unwind all while their children were being thoroughly entertained by a kind, smiling Balinese teenager… It was just too much to resist.

So, we decided to take the leap.

The typical cost of a babysitter in Bali is about $3-4 US per hour, this was for 2 children

To find a babysitter it is easy, simply ask someone at the front desk of where you are staying, or really any other Balinese person you come across. If somebody asks you if you need a taxi, you can say no, but I need a babysitter and I am sure they will be happy to oblige.

Many of the Aussies would set this up for the entire week. For example, taking yoga every morning and scheduling a babysitter to come in for 2 -3 hours daily for the week. You can do this for a day, a month, a week or probably the year 🙂

The babysitters smile and let your children really do whatever they want. The kids couldn’t be happier. What is amazing is that when you give kids the reins, remind them to be careful and respectful, things work out surprisingly well.

We took a 6 hour snorkeling trip, and the kids had a great day, we gave the hotel our cell phone number and made sure the babysitter could swim if they were to go in the water. Otherwise no pool time. When we got back they were happy as larks, and so were we.

My only regret about the babysitting in Bali is that we didn’t use it more.

You do not need to stay in fancy hotels to get a babysitter. Babysitters are ubiquitous and everybody in Bali is trustworthy and kind. You can feel very confident taking longer day trips and know that your kids will be well entertained. You can worry about something bad happening, but it is a waste of time, kids will be kids whether they are with you or the babysitter and actually they are probably safer with the babysitter.

For parents it can be a well deserved break, that is very inexpensive and probably under-utilized.

Today on a 3-hour drive from Pemuteran down to Ubud we watched as a 12-year-old boy lost control of his motorbike and crashed landing just yards away directly in front of our van.

He was sideswiped by an oncoming driver and then a truck ran over his body after he landed on the asphalt.

I was sitting in the front passenger’s seat reading and looked up just in time to see most of it,  including the rag doll effect of his body rebounding upward as the truck ran him over then released the full weight of the vehicle from his torso.

It happened so fast, so extremely fast.

What transpired next surprised me even more. Our driver sat there and said “you saw nothing, we saw nothing.”

I was horrified.

The Bystander Effect

There was probably 12 or 15 adults standing around the scene of the accident, everyone stood around and looked on as this young child bled to death in the middle of the road.

I told our driver I was getting out of the car.

I walked up to the boy and saw quite a bit of blood, his legs and arms were twitching, as I leaned down to asses the situation two other men came to help. There was an audible silence, and a lot of people speaking in Balinese, I could tell they were pointing fingers.

I stabilized his head and neck the best I could and we lifted him up, he was bleeding from his forehead.  He was barely conscious and unable to speak, his eyes were rolling up into the heavens and his pupils appeared dilated.

The three of us took him to the side of the road where I wanted to place him down on the soft grass so we could quickly address any injuries that may need to be stabilized.

The owner of the home yelled at us and pushed us off her lawn, I was taken aback, yet not really surprised. I could tell by our drivers reaction that this was a unique and culturally sensitive situation.

We had to carry the boy past two unwelcoming storefronts until we finally settled for a broken stone walkway on the roadside. I checked his breathing and pulse which was strong and then unbuttoned his shirt and shorts.  There were no obvious signs of an external injury.  One of the men pulled off his helmet and that is when I got a good look at the boy.  It is also when I realized that indeed, he was just a boy.

He could have been my boy, anybody’s boy.

The two men who had helped were also driving a truck with some type of flower or produce in the back.  The plan was to drive him quickly to the hospital. We lifted the boy once again and they sat him in the front middle seat of the truck.  His body went limp and he fell against the passenger side window.

Then they drove quickly away.

It all happened so fast

It wasn’t until the truck was leaving that I felt the heavy burden of dread come over me, when I realized I should have jumped in the bed of that truck and gone with them.

My family was in a van pulled off the side of the road up ahead, but our driver would have followed had I demanded it.

How could I be so stupid to let him go? What if he started to crash, needed CPR or just somebody there to hold him and care for him on that one hour ride?

Where was I going that was all that important?

So I sat back down in the leather seat of our 6 passenger van and I thought about this 12-year-old boy.

How his life had begun this morning and may have ended this afternoon. He was simply coming home from school, riding a scooter, the warm breeze his hair, laughing like a schoolboy should and then….

It happened so fast!

(Google map link)

Jimbaran was an incidental stop on our 1 month trip to Bali.

We ended up spending 3 nights here after a 5 pm arrival at Bali International airport in need of a place to catch up on sleep.

The saving grace for Jimbaran was the Hotel Puri Bambu  – which after coming from the cold winter of South Africa was a welcome respite. We all immediately jumped into the huge central swimming pool and my first thought was “I am in heaven.”

Then I ordered a cold beer from the poolside bar!

We found Jimbaran on a last minute ( the night before) internet search on where to stay around Kuta (which wasn’t Kuta) when arriving Ngurah Rai International Airport. Several sites recommended Jimbaran with kids because it had a nice beach, gentle surf, and a relaxed atmosphere.

As you will find with many places in Bali, especially when traveling with kids, the hotel can be a highlight of a certain location and can make or break a place. Coming from South Africa where we had large and inexpensive “self-catering units” we realized very quickly that if we were not all going to share a bed we would have to pay a bit more.

Hotel Puri Bambu has one of the nicest pools we have come across for a very reasonable price, lovely gardens and a good Bali feel.

Hotel Puri Bambu with Kids

Jimbaran beach is actually quite nice. If you are arriving here as your first stop in Bali as we were you may be under-impressed, but as you travel the island you will begin to see why people say it is a good place for kids.

Surfing in Jimbaran Beach is Perfect for Kids and Beginners

There is a very gentle surf break at the far end (opposite the airport side) where anyone could learn to surf, when the tide is right it is perfect for body surfing and our kids had a blast playing in the waves. It is one of the only beaches in Bali we have been to that had fun waves and very little riptide.

Kuta’s main beach is fun for kids as well, but the rips here are strong as you will see when you visit.

Jimbaran is famous for its beachside seafood dining. We did partake in one sunset meal and it was nice, but it all felt a bit fake and a little forced. But like the guidebooks said, you can sit and enjoy a meal while your kid’s frolick on the beach… That, of course, is only if they are in the mood.

The walk from Hotel Puri Bambu is about 5-7 minutes to the beach and your kids probably will complain if this is your first stop and they are adjusting to the beach. It makes a great starting point for a trip to Uluwatu Temple as well for a night dance, although we did not know this until we had already left and were in Kuta.

Final Verdict

Jimbaran is not a “must see” Bali location by any means. It is made very nice by the well priced and well located Hotel Puri Bambu which really sells it in my mind as an airport stopping point. The breakfast is one of the best we have had and they have a free shuttle into Kuta which I have yet to see anywhere else on our adventures.

The beach is decent, not AMAZING, and you can eat fish on the beach, but you can really do this anywhere.

Costs and highlights:

  • Transfer from airport to hotel (by the hotel) was 75,000 IDR (about 7 bucks)
  • Hotel Puri Bambu  – about $55 US per night plus an extra bed if you want for $20 – this is the one place we paid the difference which brought up the cost.
  • Free amazing breakfast.
  • Free WiFi that was pretty good.

After 1 week in Bali our family was craving an ideal location for surf and fun with the kids.  We happened upon Balian Beach after changing plans to avoid the overpriced Gilis.

Here is What we Wanted

  • Great beginner/intermediate surfing right outside our door (check)
  • Surfboards to hire/rent (check)
  • A nice pool for the kids (check)
  • very close to the beach (check)
  • A spacious room (big check)

We found it all (and more) at Pondok Pitaya on Balian beach.

Although the surf was a bit bigger than I would have liked while were there, everything about Balian beach and Pondok Pitaya was perfect.

They had babysitting, yoga, message, wonderful surfing, surfing lessons, board rentals, good food, a great atmosphere and lots of vacationing families.

We stayed there for 5 days and 6 nights

The afternoon wind could be strong, but the morning and early evenings were perfect. The surf favors a 5-6 food swell with a mid to high tide. It can go from perfect to quite big overnight and is a bit fickle. There are strong rips and a rocky bottom so it is not great for surfing with small children.

The cost of a driver to Balian Beach from the East Coast of Sanur was 400,000 Indonesian Rupiah… About $35 US.

Surfboard rentals are right next to the hotel and should be no more than 50,000.  There were boards of all sizes in mediocre condition for rent.

You can get lessons from a great instructor for about $35 US.

The message and yoga options are large and varied, on-site they are more expensive than you will find in the bigger cities.

The accommodations are unique and very, I call them super bungalows.

You are right on the beach and you can see the surf from your bed.

Tide shifts are huge and there is a very strong rip so again be forewarned.

Prices on Bookings.com tend to be the best. Pondok Pitaya on Bookings.

You may also want to double check on Agoda to find the best price. Pondok Pitaya on Agoda

I ran today for the first time in 10 days.

My God I thought, life is beautiful.

The sun rising warmly over the rice terraces, casting a golden yellow glow as sweet as honey upon the rusted cast iron fence and hand carved stone edifice of the Hindu Temple.

Into the Mangrove forest, along a deserted stone pathway, crossing cattle, coconut lined dirt roads, and palm trees… So many long, tall, fluffy palm tress.

Then up the hill, past a waterfall.

FriendsHidden treasures I call them, and I pack them away into my “bag.”

I save them for a later time when a day is long or hard or life seems a little too monotonous.

Covers off, parting the lipstick red mosquito nets that drape my bamboo bed, my footsteps are silenced by the sound of waves beating the black sand beaches of Balian bay.

And the children sleep, lulled by the cool air, the ocean and the humm of the room fan perched besides their beds.

Today, we had a great day.

We bid farewell to small friends with Australian accents, little brown nosed dogs and a broomstick prince.

I took one last swim, returned the rental surfboard and greeted the warm toothless smile of the old, wrinkled Balinese women who took my $20 dollars for the 5 day board rental.

One final eggs on toast with homemade apple jam, fresh fruit and background music which reminded me I am indeed middle age.

This is living, this is what it means to breath I think, and now I type, sipping lightly sweetened, packaged Nescafe, my distorted reflection on the shiny silver tea pot and the warm Balinese air.

Tonight, everything seems just right!

I am not a psychiatrist or an expert on parenting, if I was maybe I wouldn’t be writing this post.

Hell, if I was I probably wouldn’t have quit my job and bought tickets halfway around the world.

But, I have been traveling 6 weeks now with my wife and 2 small children taking on roadschooling, sharing often small rooms and small beds in confined places and traveling through some difficult to negotiate places.

I have been learning to manage a fledgling online business with spotty internet and very limited connections.

Almost every day I bookmark something that I will turn to as a highlight in my book of life. Everyday our learning and life experience grows exponentially.

My children have been asked to break out of every comfortable routine they have ever had, my wife and I have had to learn to work as a strong and unified team, we have all had to learn to work together.

Rooming together has had its ups and downs. It has led to some real memorable bedtime talks as a family that I will never forget, also it has led to children rolling off beds, legs on our heads, long periods of involuntary abstinence and difficult evenings when everybody is tired (most notably the two times after we had 23 hour flights!)

Many parenting books talk about giving children space to vent and cool off if they are overtired and are throwing a fit. This is not so hard when you are in the comfort of your home, in a hotel at 11pm when everyone is sleeping or in a long line after 2 hours of sitting in customs this can be very challenging.

I wrote both my parents the other day describing some of the difficulties we have experienced over the last two weeks:

  • Our six year olds resistance to homeschooling.
  • Some truly epic meltdowns when everyone is overtired, hungry or thirsty.
  • Homesickness

There were several times in the past 2 weeks that I was ready to throw in the proverbial towel and just book a flight home already. Family travel is great when everyone is happy, but when people are overtired, overheated and in search of a good meal things can go sour pretty fast.

My mom, a schoolteacher of 30 years, who raised my sister and I, is the epitome of zen in the face of a childhood meltdown.

She had this to say:

I really found this to be true in dealing with children. They don’t know what is wrong or have the skills to cope so they act out. Many adults have the same lack of skills!

She hit the nail on the head on this one!

Sometimes in the middle of a truly wonderful day one of our children will act out over what seems to be the tiniest things.

This has been amplified over the last 2 weeks.

It can present as rudeness, a lack of empathy, bickering, complaining etc. etc.

I believe it all has a common core, one that requires we as parents to react with love, empathy and a calm demeanor.

Beyond the culture, beyond the animals, beyond the unique smells, new foods and amazing people there is something else that can grow out of family travel.

A strong family: 

  • One that treats each other and everyone around them with respect
  • A family that reacts with kindness and love in all situations
  • A family that has a desire to understand and identify with the struggles of others
  • A family that respects one another
  • That embraces lifelong learning

These things, which I thought were simple and obvious become more difficult when we are stressed.

Travel does create stress, which can lead to cracks in your armor. It has exposed many of my own, and I believe at the end of the year it will be this mission, this goal to become a stronger more loving and generous family that will be our greatest reward as well as our greatest challenge!

Breakdown of costs for 3 nights and 3 full days for a family of 4 in Jeffrey’s Bay

  • Accommodations –  $198  for 3 nights in a 4 star B&B (we splurged)
  • Excursions – $0
  • Groceries – $49 (lasting 4 days)
  • Eating out – $60

Total cost:  $307

We made Jeffrey’s Bay our last stop on the Garden Route and our 6’th stop on our South Africa family adventure traveling from Cape Town → Hermanus  → Oudtshoorn →  Wilderness  → Plettenburg Bay  →  then here to Jeffrey’s Bay.

We went to “J-bay” as it is passionately called because I like to surf, and Jeffrey’s is considered by many to be one of, if no the best, surfing wave in the world.

The day we arrived the swell was 15-19 feet high and there were more people sitting in the observatory deck than there were in the water, which I counted to be exactly zero.

I figured these locals just didn’t have what it took to surf real waves until the next morning when there were well over 100 people in the water, what a difference a day makes!

Although I never did surf J-Bay (I opted for body boarding on the “kiddie beach” with 11 foot sell instead) it has been one of my favorite stops along our journey.

What to do with Kids in Jeffrey’s Bay

As I mentioned above, J-Bay is a surfing town, it fits every stereotype, down to our laid back hostel owner who when I asked what the swell was going to be like tomorrow looked at me with his big brown eyes and said, it is what it is, it may be smaller, it may be bigger, we just take each day as it comes and try not to predict the future.

Wow, I thought, that is a great way to live life!

We then talked about life in J-bay, how he had built this hostel with his own hands, briefly discussed the meaning of life, and then I promptly logged on to their WiFi and checked Surfline to check the next days swell.

What can I say, Zen habits take time man!

Surfing

If you are a good surfer J-bay is your spot. It is “heavy”, fast, a bit unpredictable and sublime to watch.

The main area for surfing is a region called Supertubes, Of course like all descent surf spots “supertubes” is divided once again. I called it small medium and large. The locals called it “boneyards’, supertubes, and the point. (please don’t hate me if I got this wrong)

Having surfed long enough I knew “boneyards” probably was named that way for a good reason. Asking why it was named that way I got a mix of answers, but my first walk at low tide was all I needed to see. A large, jagged, rocky reef made up of a myriad of mini canyons separated white sandy beach from velocity of J-bay’s wave.

The stories I heard about broken bones, lacerations, missing front teeth and sharks… ahh sounds great.

As a surfer I decided not surf J-bay, which may very well mean I am not a real “surfer”, but if the surf had been smaller I would have, I would have paddled out to the point, and to be honest I would have probably paid the 20 bucks for a lesson.

J-bay has a strong and unpredictable current so you should not go at it alone especially for your first time, the reef (in my opinion) is big enough that it could cause some serious bodily injury. The wave is spectacular, there is a reason it is called Supertubes and everybody who comes back from a surf session has a big smile on their faces. The laid back surfer culture is refreshing, people are not arrogant, but kind, even the bushy blond haired prototypical surfer dudes are readily approachable.

Beaches

Endless, white, sandy and scattered with jewels of the sea, the beaches at J-bay are surprisingly spectacular. As a runner this was a dream come true.

Where to stay in Jeffrey’s Bay with Kids

Stay at: Cristal Cove

(A story from Wendy)

We found our place in Jeffrey s Bay, it’s called Crystal’s Cove and it has turned into such a wonderful spot!

For around $65 a night we had our own family apartment complete with two bedrooms, two baths, balcony with a view to the ocean, full kitchen, living room, TV, consistent WiFi, beer bottle candles, a friendly cat, a lively bar downstairs, a pool table, tennis courts a block away, a play ground a block away, great people to talk too and to round it off, Supertubes right outside our bedroom window.

Our room was surprisingly quiet, even though we were right above the bar.

On arrival a darling 6 year old with a sparkle in her eye greeted us with “My name is Aleah, come and see this cool dead lizard!”

Wow, I thought,  it was like meeting our daughters long lost twin.

Turns out she was the owners granddaughter. The kids quickly befriended one another and ended up having 2 wonderful play dates during our stay, as did mom and dad!

Crystal Cove is a true family run business. The patriarch of the family is a kind and gentle man who will talk your ear off about the local surf and what it used to be like in the old days, his wife is a painter, their daughter, Cindy, was equally animated and kind,  she spent the afternoon chatting with us as the children laughed and played.

We met a 14 yr old boy from the Maldives traveling with his Dad on a surf holiday.

He joined in with the kids’ fun acting as an older brother, chasing the kids around the hostel and having a grand old time.

I finally got to ask Cindy, a true local, some burning questions that I had about South African society.  Everything from questions about the racial divide to why such bad coffee and internet, to what was up with all the parking attendants that crowd the South African streets.

My only regret is not eating dinner the first night with everyone. It smelled and looked so delicious.

One of the staff at Crystal Cove is a chef and will cook up a great meal every night for a minuscule price if there’s enough people.

Where to Eat in J-Bay with Kids

The kids had Pb&J by candle light and I had yogurt with granola.

We opted for some really bad pizza at a very popular Portuguese restaurant in town earlier.

Mental note, don’t order pizza at a great Portuguese restaurant, order the Portuguese food, it looked fantastic!

Addo is a magical place for kids and families.

We made this our third stop on our route from Cape Town → Hermanus  → Oudtshoorn →  Wilderness  → Plettenberg Bay  → Jeffrey’s Bay  → and here at the Addo Elephant Park.

Breakdown of costs for 3 nights and 3 full days for a family of 4 in Addo

  • Accommodations –  $184  for 3 nights at the amazing river cabins.
  • Excursions – $56
  • Groceries – $41 (lasting 4 days)
  • Eating out – $39

Total cost:  $320

What to do in Addo with Kids:

Addo is all about the elephants!

Addo elephant park is truly an “out of this world” experience.  It will go down in the record books as one of the most mesmerizing and delightful experiences of my life.

For our two small children, it was a bit “too much time in the car”.  Either way, Addo and the elephant park is a must for anyone planning a trip to South Africa, especially for families.

Addo is a State run park and offers it’s own paid 2-hour drives on the game reserve in Land Rovers.  But as we have found just like most state parks here in South Africa, for safety reasons, your children must be 6 or older to book a guided drive through the park itself.  Because we were traveling with our 4-year-old son we chose to self-drive the park, so just remember this if you are traveling with younger children and wish to go on a guided tour.

*You do not need to book with a tour group to go to the elephant park. You simply drive to the entrance, pay the entrance fee and you are all set. 

What is the best part of being 4 people crammed into a tiny car just a bit bigger than a male bull rhinoceros?  When the elephants quietly sneak up behind the car, you can just imagine the looks on your kids’ faces!

A self-drive offers scheduled potty and food breaks and allows you to enjoy the park at your own pace, it is also free apart from the small admission fee. Because the locations of animal spottings are posted on the main board as you enter the park you don’t have to worry about missing much.

If you are traveling with younger children and would like to book an expedition through an agency I would recommend Schotia Safaris. They have several options available and they have a friendly staff!

Schotia Safaris:

We were intending to go on an evening safari with our entire family with Schotia Safaris, but it rained for 2 days straight so we decided to wait till we got to St. Lucia and Hluhluwe & Umfolozi Game Reserve instead.

That being said I still think Schotia would have been an amazing adventure and a good deal for the family. I spoke with the owner who was very helpful, offers pickup from the Avoca river cabins and gives 1/2 price discounts for small children.

This may also be your only chance to see lions or leopards on safari, especially if you go on the evening tour.

Where to stay in Addo with Kids:

Avoca river cabins

The Avoca river cabins are about 15 minutes away from the Elephant Park. Hands down this is the very best place we have stayed in all of South Africa (and that is saying a lot!).

  • Free kayaks for use on the river
  • Amazing river front cabins with a heater during the winter months!
  • A beautiful pool with a slide
  • A full kitchen
  • Two playgrounds each equipped with a ground level trampoline, zipline, tire swing and a jungle gym.
  • Less than $65 US per night!

Let me say it one more time as well to make sure you get this down. There is a free and amazing kid size zipline! So cool.

Breakfast was 5 dollars for adults and free for children, and because the property is on an orange orchard you can help yourself to all the oranges you would like. Because of this we ate oranges and drank fresh squeezed orange juice for 3 days straight!

Where to eat in Addo with Kids

My wife and the kids enjoyed the food at a wonderful restaurant nearby. Although the roof blew off she 🙂 she said the food was inexpensive and excellent. When I get the name of it I will post it here!

NOTE: Addo the town and the elephant park is confusing, but it really isn’t once you get there. We thought the only way to enjoy the park may be to stay at one of the park’s cabins, but this is not at all the case. There are other bigger resort type areas as well such as highly regarded camp fig tree which are expensive and absolutely not necessary. There are several “self-catering B&B’s in the area which all are very close to the park. The park itself is simply a large fenced off nature reserve with lots of amazing animals. Addo the town and the small towns outside such as Kirkwood are not really tourist towns. In fact, if you are driving from the south and emerging from the Garden route you will find this to be the first time you are submerged in Xhosa culture. Where white skin becomes the minority and the towns definitely

View Google Map stay at Wilderness Beach House Backpackers

We made Wilderness our 4th stop on our 5 week tour of South Africa going from  Cape Town → Hermanus →  Oudtshoorn →  Wilderness.

We had planned to stay in Victoria Bay or Mossel Bay but decided to make Wilderness our destination because of word of mouth recommendations and the fact that we found a great backpackers hostel en route that provided two rooms with a balcony overlooking the beach for $40 per night!

Waking up to Southern Right Whales, and the sound of crashing waves makes this a wonderful stop on any family South African itinerary.

Breakdown of costs for 3 nights and 3 full days for a family of 4 in Wilderness

  • Accommodations –  $85  for 2 nights and 3 days
  • Excursions – $95
  • Groceries – $3 (lasting 4 days)
  • Eating out – $37

Total cost:  $220

What to do in Wilderness and Knysna with Kids

Wilderness Beaches:

Wilderness is pure beauty, it is a great place to set your bags down, let the kids run on the beach and relax with your partner sipping the delightful instant coffee provided for free by your hostel.

Knysna and Emzini Township Tours

Some people recommend staying in Knysna, and this may be a reasonable option as well. We made it a day trip from our hostel in wilderness. Knysna is a tourist hub and there is a lot of shopping and small places to eat. There is also a ferry ride that we only read about. For us, it was all about the township tour with Emzini Tours.

We had wanted to visit a township for the experience and to gain a better understanding of South Africa and it’s political/socioeconomic structure. Ella, the creator of this tour will be your guide, she is energetic and passionate about her community and the chance to make positive social change.  Her energy and enthusiasm is infectious.

Our kids loved the adventure which ended with tea, cookies and drumming along with a visit to a preschool in the township.  Book ahead, the tour usually leaves at 10 am sharp and will likely be full during high season.

Buffalo Bay:

This is just 20 minutes down the road and is one of the most family friendly beaches we have found. And if you like surfing, there is a great outside break for mom and dad with a gentle inside break for the kiddos on soft sand.

If you arrive in the off-season you can rent surfboards at Buckingham Pelles. It is the white building right behind the little shopping center.

Stay:

Wilderness Beach House Backpackers – This place is so fun and friendly, the views are spectacular, it’s close to the beach and the owner of this lodge will make you feel right at home. It is cold in the winter and they don’t have heat, so be warned. You may want to ask for extra blankets.